Here’s a very quick update from Khare, approx 5000m.
We got to Khare 2 days ago in glorious weather from Thagnag. Walking up under the shadow of the surrounding peaks was simply amazing. The views of the (very gnarly looking) north facve of mera peak were simply stunning- as were the large serac avalanches coming down off it. No wonder it is unclimbed.
After a rest afternoon the team spent yesterday going over roping up and moving together with large number of people on a rope, checking their boots and making sure of the fit of their crampons before heading up to the start to the Mera Glacier at 5250m for an acclimatization walk and a bit of training on fixed lines, crampoin technique and abseiling. Unfortunately the weather was by then turning and no images were worth taking as what you would have been able to see was mostly thick cloud.
We woke up this morning to increasing thickening cloud that has turned into heavy snowfall. At this stage the forecast is for the snow to continue until late tomoro afternoon and then reduce to snow showers with high winds. This effectively means that we have little chance of making a Mera summit attempt. We will most likely be waiting for better weather conditions to make a crossing of the Mera Lha and into the Honku valley for or approach to the Amphu Labsta.
stay tuned for more updates